The boiler management industry continues to evolve, and one standout innovation is the JEPP Valve. With its myriad of high-quality features and its WRAS approval, the JEPP Valve is a distinguished entrant in the world of combi boiler filling valves. User-Friendly Design and Operation One of the defining attributes of the JEPP Valve is its user-friendly design. Regardless of whether you're a professional installer or an end-user, the valve's simple, foolproof operation ensures a smooth experience. Its hassle-free handling is a testament to its thoughtful engineering. Efficient Pressure Management The JEPP Valve outperforms many in its category through its efficient pressure management. With a preset maximum pressure of 1.4 bar, the valve masterfully prevents over-pressurization, maintaining an ideal balance for the boiler system. Its proficient pressure regulation sets the benchmark for safety and efficiency. Sustainable Water Usage In addition to its pressure management capabilities, the JEPP Valve stands as a champion of sustainability. The valve actively conserves water, showcasing a commitment towards environmentally responsible operation. Its capability to limit water wastage makes it an exceptional choice for the eco-conscious consumer. Versatile and Permanent Solution Whether it's a new installation or a system top-up, the JEPP Valve seamlessly fits into a variety of scenarios. Its design, intended for permanent installation, offers a robust and enduring solution for various boiler system needs. Its adaptability makes it an ideal companion for any boiler system. WRAS Approval: A Mark of Excellence The JEPP Valve proudly boasts WRAS approval (#1905390), adding another feather to its cap. This approval signifies that the valve adheres to stringent industry standards, reinforcing its credibility and reliability. The JEPP Valve is more than just a boiler filling valve—it's a comprehensive solution that caters to a variety of boiler management needs. With its user-friendly design, optimal pressure control, commitment to sustainability, versatile application, and certified reliability, it represents a significant step forward in the industry. Users investing in the JEPP Valve are not merely investing in a product; they're investing in a user-friendly, efficient, and sustainable future for their boiler management needs. It truly is a game-changer in the realm of boiler maintenance and installation.

The CP4, also known as COMBIPACK4 by EPH Controls, is an OpenTherm® Programmable RF Thermostat. OpenTherm is a communication protocol used in heating systems to enable the exchange of information between the thermostat and the boiler. It allows for advanced control and optimization of heating systems, resulting in increased energy efficiency and improved comfort. The CP4 is designed to work with OpenTherm-compatible boilers and uses radio frequency (RF) communication to wirelessly connect with the heating system. This wireless functionality allows for more flexible installation options and eliminates the need for additional wiring between the thermostat and the boiler. As a programmable thermostat, the EPH Controls CP4 offers various scheduling options, allowing users to set different temperature levels for different times of the day. This feature helps optimize energy usage by adjusting the heating based on occupancy patterns and preferences. Some key features of the CP4 COMBI PACK 4 include OpenTherm compatibility: It supports the OpenTherm communication protocol, allowing for advanced control and information exchange with the boiler. Wireless RF communication: The thermostat communicates with the heating system wirelessly using radio frequency signals. This eliminates the need for additional wiring and provides installation flexibility Programmable scheduling: Users can set temperature schedules to automatically adjust heating levels throughout the day, optimizing energy usage and comfort. Temperature control: The thermostat allows precise control of the heating system, maintaining the desired temperature level in the home. User-friendly interface: The CP4 typically features an intuitive user interface, making it easy to program and adjust settings. Energy-saving features: The thermostat may include energy-saving features like adaptive learning, vacation mode, or frost protection to further enhance efficiency.

OpenTherm is a communication protocol designed to control and monitor heating systems in residential and commercial buildings. Its primary goal is to provide a standardized method for heating appliances, including boilers, heat pumps, and thermostats, to communicate with each other. By employing OpenTherm, different manufacturers' devices can seamlessly integrate into a unified heating system, simplifying installation and operation. The protocol's key features include two-wire communication, which utilizes a two-wire serial interface to exchange data between devices, streamlining wiring and installation processes. OpenTherm also enables bidirectional communication, allowing both the boiler and thermostat to exchange information. This two-way communication fosters advanced features and better coordination between system components, enhancing efficiency. Variable boiler control is a crucial aspect of OpenTherm. Unlike traditional ON/OFF systems, OpenTherm permits the modulation of the boiler's heating output. The thermostat communicates the precise heat demand required, enabling the boiler to adjust its output accordingly. As a result, heating control becomes more precise and efficient, leading to reduced energy consumption and improved comfort. Additionally, OpenTherm supports enhanced data exchange, facilitating the communication of various parameters such as current boiler water temperature, boiler flow temperature, and status information like fault codes. This capability enhances monitoring and diagnostics of the heating system, aiding in efficient maintenance. OpenTherm's open standard ensures compatibility among different devices, as manufacturers can implement it without licensing fees or restrictions. This open nature fosters a competitive and diverse market, encouraging innovation in heating technology. Moreover, OpenTherm allows the connection of multiple devices to the same two-wire bus, making it possible for a single thermostat to control multiple heating zones or handle both heating and domestic hot water production. OpenTherm streamlines the installation, operation, and maintenance of heating systems, promoting energy efficiency and intelligent heating control. Its popularity has grown significantly, especially in Europe, as it has become widely adopted as a standard for heating system communication. Honeywell developed OpenTherm, and it finds particular application in central heating systems, where a gas condensing boiler and controller communicate, enabling advanced features like weather compensation and load compensation to maximize efficiency and comfort.

Dynamic TRV or Pressure Independent Valves (PIV) radiator valves are equipped with a flow limiting device that allows for presetting of maximum water flow through a radiator. These valves come with a built-in pressure regulator that maintains a constant level of differential pressure over the valve, preventing the flow from exceeding in the face of other radiators closing within the system. In such cases, excess flow from the circulator cannot exit the boiler and this causes it to react immediately and modulate down. Furthermore, these valves regulate the differential temperature across the system which leads to lowered return temperatures, resulting in improved condensing conditions and overall efficiency.

Part L of the Building Regulations in England aims to improve the energy efficiency of new and existing buildings. In 2013, the UK government updated Part L with a focus on reducing the carbon footprint of new buildings. The updated regulations came into effect in 2014 and were further revised in October 2015. The new changes to Part L focus on energy efficiency standards for new dwellings, non-domestic buildings, and existing buildings that undergo a major renovation. The new Part L regulations now require new homes to be 31% more energy-efficient compared to the previous standard. Non-domestic buildings such as offices, shops, and schools will be required to have CO2 emissions that are 37% lower than the previous standard. In addition, the new changes to Part L also include new standards for building fabric and services such as heating, cooling, ventilation and lighting systems. To comply with the new Part L regulations, designers and builders will need to incorporate energy-efficient features into their buildings. This may include using low-energy lighting systems, installing high-performance insulation, fitting energy-efficient boilers, and incorporating renewable technologies such as solar panels or wind turbines. The requirements and specifications for these features are outlined in Part L of the Building Regulations. When designing and constructing new buildings or carrying out major renovations, it is important to work closely with an experienced building control professional to ensure compliance with the new Part L regulations. A building control professional can help ensure that the design and construction of the building meet the energy performance requirements set out in the regulations. This may include carrying out site inspections, reviewing plans and specifications, and providing advice on energy-efficient building solutions. In conclusion, the updated Part L regulations provide clear guidance on the energy efficiency standards that new buildings must meet. The new changes require designers and builders to incorporate a range of energy-efficient features into their buildings, in order to reduce carbon emissions and improve energy efficiency. By working closely with a building control professional, designers and builders can ensure that their buildings meet the new Part L energy efficiency standards.

What does the programmer do? The programmer tells the boiler when to be turned on or off. You can set it to activate the boiler during different parts of the day and, if you wish, different days of the week (meaning you can have the system do different things at weekends to weekdays, for example). During the times that the boiler is turned on, it will provide you with heating or hot water if requested by other controls, such as a thermostat (see below). However, during the times the boiler is turned off, it will not be able to provide heating or hot water – even if asked to by other controls. If you have a hot water cylinder you should also have the ability to set time control for your hot water – either within the programmer or through a separate timer. Ideally this should allow you to set different on and off times for your hot water compared to your heating. The programmer often has a ‘boost’ function, which will let you operate the heating for a short time when it has been turned off. This is especially useful if, for example, you come home after a cold day but there is some time until the boiler is due to turn itself on. At the end of the ‘boost’ period, the boiler will automatically turn itself off. How should I use the programmer? It is recommended that you set the programmer to turn the boiler on and off at times that suit your lifestyle. After all, there is little sense in heating the house and generating hot water all day if there is nobody at home. (One exception to this rule is if you are using the system for frost protection while on holiday, in which case the thermostat must be set to a low temperature.) When setting the programmer to turn the boiler on in the morning, think about the time you usually get up, how long your house will usually take to heat up, and the weather outside. This will help you work out roughly when your heating system needs to get going.A good time to try is around 30 minutes before you usually wake up. If the house is not warm enough for you, extend this time, and at times when the weather is warmer outside, reduce it. Your programmer should allow you to set a series of programmes throughout the day (for example, turning the boiler off when you leave the house in the morning, but turning it on again before you return home of an evening).Tip: Setting the heating to come on later when you know you will be late home will save you money. If you have a hot water cylinder, your boiler will need time to heat the water inside it to give you hot water when you need it. This can take anything up to two hours so, if you use a lot of hot water in the mornings, you should bear this in mind when setting the programmer. The thermostat inside the cylinder (see below) will turn the boiler off when the water is hot enough. If you have a programmer that allows you to set different timings for the heating and the hot water, then it may be worth setting the hot water to come on an hour before the heating, so that the boiler can deal with one at a time. Tip: If your programmer cannot set different times for heating and hot water then you should re-programme it in the summer, when the heating is off, so that the boiler only runs long enough to satisfy your hot water needs. The programmer can seem daunting at first but by taking time to get used to its control functions you will be able to get the most out of your system – and be comfortable when you have to make changes to the programmes. #Plumber #OldBoilers #DIYPlumbing #BoilerService #CentralHeating #Contols #BoilerControls #ControltheBoiler

What does the room thermostat do? While the programmer is simply a ‘master switch’ that turns the boiler on or off, the room thermostat lets you set how warm you want your home to be. It checks the temperature of the room and turns the boiler on or off, to maintain the chosen temperature. If you want your home to stay the same temperature all year, keep the room thermostat at the same setting. In the winter months the room thermostat will turn the boiler on more often and for longer periods of time to maintain this temperature. You should not have to adjust the room thermostat on cooler days as the focus is on internal temperature. Remember: During ‘off’ periods set by the programmer, the boiler will not provide heating, even if requested by the room thermostat. How should I use the room thermostat? Find an inside temperature that you are comfortable with, bearing in mind that you want your home to be comfortably warm, not hot, and that a lower set point will mean lower heating bills! To do this, try setting the thermostat to around 20ºC and gradually adjust it over a few days to find a temperature that works for you. Most people are comfortable with a temperature of 18 – 20ºC, but remember, elderly and vulnerable people need warmer temperatures, so always check specific advice if you have any concerns. A few other things to remember: Firstly, trying to warm the house more quickly by turning up the thermostat will not work – although it will result in higher fuel bills, particularly if you forget to turn it down again! Secondly, the room thermostat is sensitive to internal temperatures. If a window is open in the room where the thermostat is located, then the thermostat will assume that the whole house is not warm enough and keep the boiler on – even if other rooms are overheating.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless flammable gas that is slightly less dense than air. However, studies have shown no significant difference in measurements based on what height CO detectors are mounted. Different manufacturers recommend different mounting locations, and you should always follow the manufacturers’ recommendation. CO has a molar mass of 28.0, and air has an average molar mass of 28.8. The difference is so slight that CO is found to evenly distribute itself indoors. It is worth mentioning that CO indoors is usually generated from incomplete combustion (heat source) and therefore traveling in a warm air stream. Warm air is more buoyant and does rise. Coupling this fact with the knowledge that CO is lighter than air…  I personally have my CO detector located on the ceilings. Did you know? If you only have one fuel-burning appliance, such as a gas boiler in the kitchen, you’ll only need one carbon monoxide detector. But if you have other appliances, such as a gas fire, log burner or even a fuel burning and a range cooker, you’ll need to fit a carbon monoxide detector in each room that these appear in. What Co detector should I buy? We always say stick to a brand you know. The top 3 brands we recommend are Honeywell, Fireangel and Kidde and expect to pay around £20 for 1 alarm. How to install your carbon monoxide detector Setting up and installing your carbon monoxide alarm is a straight forward DIY task and can be as easy as sitting it on a high shelf in a room with a gas-burning appliance. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on siting, testing, servicing and replacing the alarm. Most alarms will last between five and seven years, with some lasting for as long as 10 years. Pay particular attention to the unit’s battery life and when it will need replacing. Always mark an install date on the back of the alarm. Where to install your carbon monoxide detector Fit your alarm high-up in the same room as the potential source of carbon monoxide, around 150mm from the ceiling and at least 1 meter away from, cookers and fires. But make sure it’s not directly above a source of heat or steam. It doesn't need to be fixed to a wall, and a high shelf or kitchen unit is OK too. It should be located at a height greater than the height of any door or window. If the apparatus is located on the ceiling it should be at least 500mm from any wall and any ceiling obstruction e.g. light fittings. How to test a carbon monoxide detector Test your alarm regularly using the test button, replace the batteries annually or when the low battery signal sounds/ beeps. Sealed battery alarms have a battery that will last as long as the alarm and won’t need to be replaced. Test your alarm today. If you need your appliance serviced and do not have a carbon monoxide detector let us know and we can have our engineer fit one for you when visiting your home. > Book a service here > Call 020 8111 1230 > Email us at hello@lhs.plumbing

Are your radiators giving off a bad smell of eggs or similar when you bleed them of air? (the removal of air via the air vent) Then this could probably be a build-up of a chemical called Hydrogen Sulphide in the water. Hydrogen Sulphide which can build up in central heating systems not only causes a bad smell but will cause corrosion sludge and magnetite within your central heating system over time and will require removing. A few top brands of central heating cleaner and corrosion inhibitors available are Sentinal, Fernox or Adey, any one of these would be perfect for the job, but you'll need to drain and flush out the old contaminated water from the central heating system first. Cleaning the Central Heating System Before you introduce a new product to the central heating system, we recommend you fully drain the heating system of water. This will remove the loose deposits and sludge suspended in the water. Draining Down the Water in the Central Heating System First things first, turn off the power to the boiler and controls. Allow the system to cool. If you have a vented system close the supply to the feed and expansion tank in the loft. When you are ready to drain the system, you must find the drain cock on the pipework. This is normally found on a radiator by a doorway on the lowest part of the system. Run a hose to an outside drain and attach a clip to secure the end of the hose to the drain cock. Open the air vents at the top of the system to allow the water to drain away. Remember to close all vents once your system is empty. Adding the Chemical System Cleaner Consult the manufacturer's instructions to determine the correct amount of chemical to use in your system. The method used to add the cleaner will let you know what type of system you are working with. If you have an open vented central heating system, adding the chemical when filling up via the feed and expansion tank is easy. Sealed central heating systems require a pressurised cartridge of the chemical that must be connected to the air vent on a radiator using a special attachment hose. After this, inject the solution into the heating system. Refilling the Central Heating System Close the drain valve and fill the system. Remove the hose from the drain cock. With a vented system open the water supply to the tank in the loft which will allow the water to flow back into the system. With a sealed system you need to locate the filling loop and open the valves to allow water into the system paying attention to the pressure gauge. The recommended pressure for heating systems is normally 1.3 bar. You will now need to vent each radiator by opening the bleed valve to release the trapped air. Always start with the lowest level radiator and work your way to the top of the house. This reduces the chance of trapping air in the lower part of the central heating system. Turning the Central Heating System Back On Turn on the boiler and control systems and raise your thermostat to its normal setting. Allow the cleaner to run through for at least an hour. This will enable it to break down any deposits in the radiators and pipes. For dirtier systems, you may need to leave the cleaner running longer - up to four weeks in some cases - so that it can take care of stubborn sludge and sediment. Drain and Flush the Central Heating System Once the cleaner has had enough time to work it is suggested to flush out the chemicals until the water runs clear. Once this is done then refill, add inhibitor to protect the system for the future and reduce the build-up of sludge and scale. This will also prolong the life of the pump valves and other moving components in the system as well as reducing the likelihood of boiler break down. Something You Must Know Systems that have larger quantities of sludge and scale may require a power flush with the use of magnetic filters. This is a more effective solution to the fill and flush method written above and would be highly advised if you have a high efficiency boiler. All new high efficiency boilers have smaller water ways in their heat exchangers and can easily become blocked (by debris moving through the central heating system) if the right precautions are not taken. This is where it becomes more complicated and expert heating engineers are suggested to carry this type of work out to your central heating system. Our engineers have been trained on all types of heating systems and have the right equipment to remove the maximum amount of sludge and scale from your central heating system allowing the circuit to become free of debris and increasing the flow, heat and efficiency of the boiler. #ColdRadiators #Sludge #Sentinel #centralheatingcleaners #ColdSpots #Corrosion #PowerFlush #CentralHeating #Scale #Inhibitors

The most complained about plumbing problem in the UK is a dripping tap, with more than one in ten UK homeowners experiencing this issue in the past five years. Dripping taps, even a small trickle, can waste both water and consumers’ money. Fixing a dripping tap could save homeowners at least £19 a year if they are on a water meter, as well as 5550 litres of water. * The study of 2000 homeowners, commissioned by the Water Regulation Advisory Scheme (WRAS), also found that leaking pipes, clogged drains and a continuously running toilet topped the list of homeowners’ complaints. Dripping tap (14%) Leaking pipe (11%) Slow or clogged drains (10%) Running toilet (9%) Burst pipe (6%) Water temperature issue (5%) Noisy pipes (5%) Frozen pipes (4%) Flooding (3%) Water storage tank failure (2%) Fixing faulty and leaking water fixtures and fittings such as taps, pipes, and toilets as soon as possible is a good idea, both to save water and money where homes have a water meter fitted. Water leaks can cause significant damage if not dealt with promptly. Many common plumbing problems can be prevented by using a qualified plumber and only installing water fittings or fixtures that have been tested to show they meet legal requirements.” So, if you have a suspected water leak call your plumber today, prevent wastage and damage to your home before it becomes a headache. #Leakingtap #Tap #Drippingtap

This heat only boiler was experiencing difficulties in heating up the central heating system. Are you surprised? This is a common site in the plumbing and heating industry and can be fatal to our new high efficiency boilers that are being installed across the country. You could have the best boiler on the market, but if your system is full of this dirty water it's not going to last the recommend life span. So what is sludge and scale? Sludge Sludge is a semi-solid slurry that is produced in the system due to the corrosion process. Its the product from the mixture of water, air and loose corrosive metals. The abrasive nature of sludge can lead to premature pump and motorised valve failure. When the amount of sludge exceeds the ability of the boiler water to carry it in suspension, it settles on boiler surfaces. A film of sludge deposited on a heat exchanger acts as a heat insulator and reduces the transfer of heat to water, taking longer for the boiler to reach its set temperature. Baked or hardened sludge is very difficult to remove and requires the use of mechanical machines and chemicals to break down the slurry and flushed out of the system. Scale Scale is a hard mineral coating and corrosion deposits made up of solids and sediments that form from calcium and magnesium when heated. The amount of dissolved solids in our water determines how hard our water is. Hard water is high in dissolved minerals, both calcium and magnesium. Scale is a metal salt and is a good conductor of electricity. When it builds up on metal surfaces such as inside boilers or central heating pumps, it acts as an anode, with the metal becoming a cathode. This anode-cathode setup allows electrons to flow freely between the scale and the metal, allowing corrosion to take place. As the scale is not uniform, the corrosion becomes localized rather than spread evenly over the surface of the metal. Sludge and scale can greatly affect heat transfer performance. 1 millimeter thick scale or sludge can add 7.5% to energy costs, while 1.5mm adds 15% and 7mm can increase costs by over 70%. We have an understanding of all central heating systems, what the best method of reducing heating bills, keeping families warm when it matters most and maintaining the efficiency of the boiler. #noisyboiler #ColdSpots #ColdRadiators #Sludge #Limescale #Winter #Corrosion

No one wants to clean the bathroom, but we all enjoy and appreciate it when the bathroom is clean. It may be surprising, but there are many ways you can cut the time you spend cleaning and have a cleaner bathroom. You don't have to rush out and buy fancy products or commercial cleaners. All you need are these 6 simple cleaning tips to keep your bathroom cleaner without the use of harsh chemicals. In no time at all and at very little added cost, your bathroom will be fresh and sparkling. 1. Cleaning the cistern How often do you open the lid of the cistern of your toilet and look inside?  If you look at the bottom it’s a breeding ground for hard water stains, mould, mildew and bacteria. So whenever you start your toilet cleaning endeavours, start with the toilet cistern to help keep your toilet cistern cleaner between uses. Pour 1 cup of vinegar into the cistern. Allow to sit while you clean. Then flush 2-3 times to rinse out the cistern. 2. Make this natural toilet cleaner In a glass bowl, mix together ½ cup Baking Soda, 10-15 drops of lemon essential oil and 1 cup of vinegar. Vinegar reacts with the baking soda for a great foaming action in your pan. Pour the mixture into your toilet pan and give the bowl a good scrub with your toilet brush. You’ll love the smell of lemon while doing the dirty job which makes cleaning toilets much more bearable. 3. Use vinegar to remove hard water and scale stains Hard water leaves a visible build up around the handles of your bathroom taps that is almost impossible to remove. Something as simple as using pure vinegar would remove the unsightly build-up from your bathroom taps. Simply soak paper towels in vinegar and wrap them around the problem areas for 10 minutes before rinsing with water. 4. Vacuum the extractor fan Unless you look up, you probably don't remember to clean your bathroom exhaust fan very often. Dust can build up and prevent it from working well. All you need to do is give it a quick clean with the vacuum cleaner. If it's been a while between cleanings, you may need to give the cover a quick scrub under running water to get it looking like new again. 5. Whiten your grout You don't need bleach or other harsh chemicals to return your grout to a sparkling white. All you need to clean grout is baking soda, vinegar and a small scrub brush or toothbrush. The cleaners are safe enough, you can even recruit your children to help. 6. Clean the bath with no scrubbing Getting down on your hands and knees to scrub the bath is a huge task. Soap scum, hard water deposits, rust stains are not easy to deal with you no longer have to scrub. Simply use a combination of cleaning vinegar and Dawn dish soap to clean your tub without scrubbing. Heat the vinegar in the microwave for 1 minute. Pour both ingredients into a plastic spray bottle and spray evenly over the tub. In 30 minutes to 1 hour, come back and use a cleaning rag to wipe away all the grime and you’ll be amazed with the results.